The Isle of Mull; a (very) brief introduction.
Isle of Mull
The Isle of Mull is the fourth largest island in both Scotland and Great Britain, being around 30 miles long and 20 miles wide. It now has a resident population of over 3,000 although this is seen as modest compared to the early 1820s when the kelp and herring industries had flourished sufficiently to support around 10,500 people. A mere 20 years or so later the infamous highland clearances together with a devastating potato famine and the collapse of the kelp industry caused Mull's population to rapidly decline. with only ruined crofts and partially discernable lazybeds left as a reminder of past times.
With a coastline of around 300 miles (480 kilometres) and a climate moderated by the Gulf Stream, Mull's seas and shores are rich with life. Orcas (killer whales) have been spotted, albeit rarely, cruising offshore between Coll and Tobermory and more commonly, basking sharks, minke whales, harbour porpoises and bottlenose dolphins. Each year many species of sea birds overwinter here, leaving in the spring to travel to their northern breeding grounds as others arrive on the coastal cliffs and offshore Treshnish Isles to breed.
The Mull you see today is the result of a very long and varied past. Most of the island is made up of volcanic lavas, which spewed from the Earth's mantle around 60 million years ago. Mull's final shape has largely been carved by huge glaciers, which melted away approximately 10,000 years ago leaving deep 'U' shaped valleys between the mountains and long glaciated lochs. Mull has some of the oldest and most unique rocks in the world; those found on Iona are around 2,000 million years old.
The highest of Mull's hills and the only one that is a Munro (a Scottish peak over 3,000 ft / 915 m), Ben More is a prominent feature of many views on the island. In Gaelic, it means big hill. The climb to the top makes for an exhilarating experience. Situated on Loch Na Keal not far from Salen, it rises from sea level to 966 metres (3,170 ft) making it one of the few Munros where you climb the full height. A superb mountain with narrow ridges and a summit of rock and scree, it makes for a thrilling climb with rewarding and far reaching views (on a clear day) west across to the Hebrides and Treshnish Isles and east to Ben Nevis.
The main ferry links to Mull are from Oban to Craignure and from Lochaline to Fishnish. If you have a vehicle, advanced booking for the latter is not required and the crossing only takes 15 minutes, although there is a long drive over single-track roads to Lochaline. For the Oban to Craignure ferry, you do have to book your vehicle in advance to guarantee a place, especially during the season, and arrive at least 30 minutes before the ferry departs. The ship takes around 45 minutes to reach the island and there are some tremendous views to be had of mountains, castles and lighthouses as you travel up the Sound of Mull.